Paint Correction
Erase every micron of damage.
Inspection-grade correction. Documented before, during, and after.
Paint correction isn't polishing. It's controlled removal of clear coat to level scratches and swirls. Done wrong, you burn through. Done right, your paint looks better than it did from the dealership — because the dealership skipped this step.
Process
How we
actually do it.
Inspect
Paint thickness gauge + 6500K inspection lights map every panel. We mark defects on a body diagram so you can see what we're working with.
Plan
Single-, two-, or three-stage correction quote based on damage and paint health. You approve before we run a single pad.
Cut & refine
Wool, microfiber, foam — pad sequencing tuned to your specific paint. We refine until the surface reads flat under inspection light at every angle.
Protect
Add a sealant, ceramic coating, or PPF on top. We strongly recommend coating after correction — otherwise the next swirl undoes the work.
What's included
In the box.
- Pre-correction wash + decontamination
- Paint thickness mapping
- 1, 2, or 3-stage machine polishing
- Inspection-light verification
- Photographic before/after report
FAQ
Asked &
answered.
-
Can you remove deep scratches? +
Depends on depth. If a scratch hasn't broken through the clear coat, we can level it. If it has, we can soften the edge but not erase it — that's a paint job, not a polish.
-
How much clear coat do you remove? +
1–3 microns per stage. Modern factory clear is 40–60 microns. We measure before, during, and after to make sure we never exceed safe limits.
-
Should I correct or coat first? +
Always correct first. A ceramic coating locks in whatever's underneath — swirls included. Correct, then coat.
Book this service
Ready for paint correction?
Tell us your car and we'll quote within 24 hours. Most clients book the following week.
